Sunday, April 26, 2020

Inspiration from Meals, Music, and Muses: Alexander Smalls' Latest Cookbook


Not quite sure what day of the quarantine we're in, but I do know one thing: it’s time!

What is it time for?

It’s time to put the pedal to the metal, so to speak, and get back to what I started many moons ago. And so, my friends, I’m going back to one of my true loves: food writing.

To “re-inaugurate” this blog after a two-plus year hiatus, I turn to a chef, author, restaurateur, singer, dear friend/mentor whom I admire tremendously: Mr. Alexander Smalls.

With Alexander Smalls, a Few Years Ago
Now, Alexander and I met about 15 years ago, when my agent at the time thought we would not only get along well together, but that we could also collaborate on a book project. At that time, he had already published Grace the Table (which is available via Amazon and other outlets).

Well, the book Alexander and I worked on together didn’t get published, BUT others have been—and continue to be—and we are still very much connected.
Which brings me to this blog.

Alexander—in the past two years—has written and published two wonderful books (pictured below): Between Harlem and Heaven, and Meals, Music and Muses: Recipes from My African American Kitchen.

It’s Meals, Music and Muses from My African American Kitchen, published this year,  that pushed me into my Easter Sunday menu. And that, my friends, is exactly what I’m sharing with you here!
Two of Alexander's Books, with Post-Its Marking my Yet-to-Make Dishes 

As for the recipes in his book, I encourage you to buy it. Actually, you should buy both of his recently-published books to read, keep in your library, and gain inspiration from. After all, if you are lucky enough to be home, healthy, and with loved ones or neighbors who would benefit from your cooking, now is the time to cook—and share.

Speaking of sharing, some of you may recall advice I shared a while ago: when creating a new menu for family/friends, it’s a good idea to incorporate one ol’ favorite along with the new dishes. The old favorite I incorporated are the Brazilian cheese puffs, a.k.a. pão de queijo. Now—as I've also told many of you—recipes evolve and adapt depending on availability of ingredients and on what you like—or dislike, not to mention whose at the table with you. So this recipe for Brazilian cheese puffs, since first published in my cookbook Mambo Mixers,  has gone through some changes. Here, below, I send you my latest version. But first, check out the photos from our Smalls'-inspired dinner:

Our Easter Table

Icebox Lemon Pie = dreamy...


Here’s the menu (Note: All are from Meals, Music and Muses--except for the Cheese Puffs!):

·         Brazilian Cheese Puffs 
·         Deviled Eggs
·         Carolina Hoppin’ John (Rice and Peas)
·         Carolina Cabbage Slaw with Roasted Sweet Corn
·         Barbecue Ribs with Bourbon Praline Sauce
  Icebox Lemon Pie

And, with this menu, and encouragement to explore, I sign off. In the meantime, I urge you to make the additions suggested to your cookbook library—
and to play with your food!

Warmest regards,
Arlen

Here's the Cheese Puff recipe: 

    Brazilian Cheese Puffs
(Adapted from Mambo Mixers,©2005, Arlen Gargagliano)

Makes about 6 dozen small cheese puffs
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • 1/3 cup water
  • 1/3 cup milk
  • 1 3/4 cups tapioca starch (doce) or manioc flour (available in large grocery stores and Latin markets)
  • 1/4 cup tapioca starch (azedo)
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 2 cups freshly grated Sardo (Argentine parmesan), your favorite parmesan, or Pecorino Romano cheese
  • 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. In a medium saucepan, combine the oil, water, and milk and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, pour the starches into a large bowl. When the liquid has boiled, add it to the starch and mix well. Let it rest for about 15 minutes. Then stir in the eggs and the cheeses and mix until well blended.

Form into medium size balls, about the circumference of a half dollar. (At this point you can refrigerate them up to three days in advance.) Just before your guests arrive, place them an inch apart on parchment paper covered sheet pans. Bake in the top rack of the oven, until they start to brown (about 15 minutes). Then flip them so that they brown on both sides. Let them cook for another three to five minutes. Serve immediately--with caution because they will be hot! Keep remaining (if you have any left!) cheese puffs in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Reheat, wrapped in a paper towel, for about 15 seconds in the microwave.